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Worcester Bosch Error Codes: Full List and What They Mean
A code flashing on your Greenstar display tells you why the boiler has stopped. Here's a plain-English reference for the most common Worcester Bosch codes, which ones you can safely deal with yourself, and which are strictly a Gas Safe engineer's job.
Quick answer
Worcester Bosch Greenstar codes are a letter category followed by a number — for example EA (ignition/flame fault), E9 (overheat), C6 (fan fault), A1 (pump/no-flow), F0 (internal/PCB fault) and low-pressure codes such as CE 207.
Only low pressure (top up via the filling loop), a single front-panel reset, a frozen condensate pipe and the power/controls are safe homeowner jobs. Anything touching the gas valve, burner, electrode, flue or sealed combustion circuit is for a Gas Safe registered engineer.
Reset a lockout once only — if the same code returns, stop and book an engineer. Suffix digits vary by model, so always check your manual.
How Worcester Bosch error codes work
Worcester Bosch is one of the UK's most common boiler brands, and most modern Greenstar combi, system and heat-only models show a fault as a short code on the front display. Older units flash a number or letter; newer ones with a text display (and the EasyControl app) often spell out the issue too.
The codes usually come as a letter category followed by a number — for example EA, E9 or C6. The letter hints at the type of fault (an "E" or "EA" group around ignition and flame, a "C" group around the fan and air, an "A" group around water flow and sensors).
The exact code, and especially the suffix digits, can vary between models and generations, so always cross-check against the manual or the sticker inside your boiler's casing flap for your specific unit.
How Worcester Bosch codes are structured
Worcester Bosch doesn't use one flat list — it uses five kinds of code, and knowing which one you're looking at saves a lot of guessing. The single most useful trick is the cause code: pressing the return/back button reveals a three-digit number that pinpoints the actual fault behind a more general lockout.
| Type | What you see | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Blocking | Boiler shuts down with no code on the display | A temporary stop (often a blockage or transient condition). Press the return/back button to bring up the cause code in the info menu. |
| Locking | A flashing code alongside a warning-triangle symbol | The boiler has locked out for safety and won't restart without a manual reset. The cause code shows alongside the flashing fault code. |
| Fault | An alphanumeric code such as EA, E9 or C6 | The fault category — the letter group hints at the area (ignition/flame, fan/air, sensors). |
| Cause | A three-digit number (e.g. 227, 207, 224) revealed by pressing the return/back button | The precise cause behind the fault code — this is the number that actually narrows down the problem. EA 227 and EA 229 are very different things despite both being "EA". |
| H / maintenance | A code beginning with H (e.g. H07) | Not a lockout — an advisory that something needs attention soon. The boiler usually keeps running. See the service-symbol note below. |
So when you read a Worcester code, note the letter-group and press the return/back button to read the cause number — quoting both (for example "EA 227") lets an engineer come prepared with the right part.
Common Worcester Bosch Greenstar error codes
The tables below are grouped by model range, because the same letter group can carry a different cause number on different boilers.
Each lists the code with the cause suffix you'll actually see, a plain-English meaning, and whether it's something a homeowner can safely act on or a job for a Gas Safe registered engineer. Treat the detail as general guidance, not a diagnosis — your manual is the final word for your model.
Where two boilers share a code we've noted it; if your suffix differs, trust your manual over the table.
Greenstar i / Si Compact and CDi Compact
The newer combi ranges most homes now have. Press the return/back button to read the cause number.
| Code | What it means | Who should deal with it |
|---|---|---|
| CE 207 | Water pressure too low — the boiler won't fire because system pressure has dropped below the safe minimum. | Homeowner can repressurise (see below) |
| EA 227 | No flame detected, or the flame signal was lost during operation — too weak an ionisation (flame) current after ignition. Locks out for safety. | Gas Safe engineer (one reset only — see below) |
| EA 229 | Loss of flame/ionisation signal during the burn — in cold weather this is most commonly a frozen condensate pipe (see the frozen-condensate section). | Homeowner can thaw a frozen condensate pipe; if it re-locks, Gas Safe engineer |
| C6 215 | Fan running too fast — the combustion fan is over-speeding or its signal is misread. | Gas Safe engineer |
| C6 216 | Fan running too slow — fan speed has dropped below the expected range. | Gas Safe engineer |
| E9 219 | Safety temperature sensor fault — a temperature above ~105°C, or a short/open circuit on the sensor. | Gas Safe engineer |
| E5 218 | Flow temperature too high — the primary flow has exceeded its safe limit. | Gas Safe engineer |
| E2 222 | Flow temperature sensor fault — open or short circuit on the flow (NTC) sensor. | Gas Safe engineer |
| F0 237 | Internal error — a general control-board (PCB) or internal fault the boiler can't categorise more precisely. | Gas Safe engineer |
| F7 228 | False flame — an ionisation current was measured before the burner started, so the boiler shuts down. | Gas Safe engineer |
| FA 306 | Residual/false flame — flame still detected after the burner should have gone out. | Gas Safe engineer |
| FA 364 | Gas valve EV2 leak-test failed — a possible gas-valve leak detected by the boiler's self-check. | Gas Safe engineer (do not reset repeatedly) |
| NO CODE 212 | Flow/safety temperature rising too fast — usually a circulation or flow problem detected at start-up. | Gas Safe engineer (you can first check pressure) |
Greenstar i (Greenstar 25i/30i/old "i" range)
| Code | What it means | Who should deal with it |
|---|---|---|
| EA | No ionisation (flame) detected after ignition — ignition/flame lockout. | Gas Safe engineer (one reset only) |
| E9 | Overheat — the safety temperature limiter has tripped. Often poor flow, a stuck pump or a sensor fault. | Gas Safe engineer |
| C7 214 | Fan not running on start-up — the fan failed to spin up when the boiler tried to fire. | Gas Safe engineer |
| C1 264 | Airflow stopped during operation — the fan stalled or air pressure was lost mid-burn. | Gas Safe engineer |
| C4 273 | On many models this is benign — the boiler briefly switched itself off (up to about 2 minutes) after running continuously for more than 24 hours, then restarts on its own. If it keeps recurring or won't restart, have it checked. | Usually self-clears; Gas Safe engineer if it persists |
| FD 231 | Power interruption, or the reset button was pressed by mistake — often clears on a single reset once power is stable. | Homeowner can check power and reset once |
| A21 | Loss of RF signal — the wireless thermostat and boiler have stopped communicating (flat batteries, range or interference). | Homeowner can re-pair / change batteries (see below) |
Greenstar CDi Classic (Regular & Combi) and CDi Highflow
The longer-serving CDi range, including the Highflow models. Older CDi units may show a fault as a flashing symbol rather than a neat alphanumeric code.
| Code | What it means | Who should deal with it |
|---|---|---|
| EA 227 | No flame detected / flame signal lost — ignition lockout (same family as the Compact range). | Gas Safe engineer (one reset only) |
| EA 229 | Loss of flame signal during the burn — in winter, classically a frozen condensate pipe. | Homeowner can thaw a frozen pipe; engineer if it re-locks |
| D5 | Condensate drainage problem — typically a condensate pump or trap fault, a blocked pipe, or in cold weather a frozen condensate pipe. (On some CDi units D5 is instead a service-due reminder — check your manual.) | Thaw if the external pipe is frozen; otherwise Gas Safe engineer |
| E9 224 | Overheat — the contacts of the safety temperature sensor have been interrupted, or the flue-gas/limit thermostat has tripped. | Gas Safe engineer |
| F7 228 | False/residual flame — an unexpected flame signal, so the boiler shuts down. | Gas Safe engineer |
| FA 306 | Flame detected after the burner went out — residual-flame fault. | Gas Safe engineer |
| A1 / no-flow | Pump / no-water-flow fault — the boiler isn't sensing enough circulation, often a seized pump or an airlock. | Gas Safe engineer (you can first check pressure) |
Greenstar 8000 & Greenstar 4000
The current Greenstar 8000 (Life/Style) and 4000 ranges share the same letter-plus-cause-number system as the Compact range above — for example CE 207 (low pressure), EA 227 (flame fault) and the C6 fan codes carry across. The 4000 uses a simplified set of the same codes.
Because firmware and cause numbers were refreshed on these models, read the cause code via the return button and check it against the manual supplied with your specific 8000/4000 unit rather than assuming an older suffix.
If your code isn't in these tables, don't guess from a similar-looking one. The same two characters can mean different things across the Greenstar i, CDi and Compact ranges — the cause number is what tells them apart. Check your model's manual or the Worcester Bosch support pages for the exact meaning.
Which faults can a homeowner safely deal with?
Only a short list of these is genuinely DIY. Everything that touches the gas valve, the burner, the flame-sensing electrode, the flue or the sealed combustion circuit means taking the casing off and using test equipment — that is Gas Safe engineer work only, and it is illegal as well as dangerous for an unregistered person to attempt it.
Here's the quick split at a glance:
| You can safely act on these | Gas Safe registered engineer only |
|---|---|
| Low pressure (e.g. CE 207) — top up via the filling loop | Ignition/flame faults (EA 227, EA, F7, FA) — burner, electrode, gas valve |
| A single front-panel reset of a lockout | Overheat faults (E9 219/224) — pump, flow, safety sensor |
| Frozen condensate pipe (often EA 229) — thaw with warm water | Fan / air-pressure family (C6 215/216, C7, C1) and condensate-pump faults (D5) |
| Power and controls (FD 231) — check the spur, reset once | Sensor faults (E2, E5, D1) and internal/PCB faults (F0 237) |
| Wireless thermostat (A21) — batteries, range, re-pair | Any code touching gas, the flue or sealed combustion |
Even on the "safe" side, the rule is one reset only: if the same code returns, stop and book an engineer.
The homeowner-safe checks are:
- Low pressure — top up using the filling loop (steps below).
- A single front-panel reset — for a lockout such as EA, reset once and watch what happens.
- A frozen condensate pipe in cold weather (typically shows as EA 229) — thaw the external plastic pipe with warm (not boiling) water. (A D5 code can also point to a frozen pipe, but more often means a condensate-pump or drainage fault that needs an engineer.)
- Power and controls — check the boiler has power, the fused spur is on, and the thermostat or programmer is calling for heat.
The reset-once rule
For a lockout code like EA, you can press and hold the reset button on the front panel for a few seconds to restart the ignition sequence. Do this only once.
How to repressurise a Worcester Bosch boiler
If you have a low-pressure code, repressurising via the filling loop is a safe homeowner job. The gauge should read about 1 to 1.5 bar when cold, rising towards roughly 2 bar when hot. Below about 1 bar is low.
- Turn the boiler off and let it cool for a few minutes.
- Find the filling loop — on many Greenstar models this is an internal keyed valve underneath the boiler; on others it's a silver braided hose with a tap at each end.
- Open the valve(s) slowly. You'll hear water flowing in.
- Watch the gauge and stop at about 1.0–1.5 bar. Don't go past ~2 bar.
- Close the valve(s) firmly, switch the boiler back on, and reset once if the code is still showing.
If the pressure keeps falling over days or weeks, you have a leak or an expansion-vessel fault that needs an engineer — not endless topping up. For more detail, see our guide to low boiler pressure.
Frozen condensate pipe (typically EA 229)
In a cold snap, one of the most common Worcester lockouts is a frozen condensate pipe. The boiler can't drain the small amount of acidic water it produces, so it shuts down — typically showing EA 229 (loss of flame signal during the burn).
A D5 code can also be caused by a frozen pipe, though it more usually points to a condensate-pump or drainage fault. It often strikes overnight after the first hard frost.
This one is a safe homeowner job:
- Find the condensate pipe — usually a white or grey plastic pipe running out through an external wall to a drain.
- Pour warm (not boiling) water along it, concentrating on any bends, the open end, or the lowest external point where ice forms. Boiling water can crack the pipe or the fittings.
- Once the ice clears, reset the boiler once and it should fire normally.
H-codes and service symbols (not always a fault)
Not every symbol on the display is a lockout. Worcester also shows advisory and "normal operation" indicators, so before you panic about a fault, check whether what you're seeing is actually one of these:
- H-codes (e.g. H07) — maintenance codes. The boiler usually keeps running, but something needs attention soon. H07 indicates low water pressure with performance limited — repressurising clears it.
- Spanner / "SE" service-due symbol — not a fault. Worcester displays it once the boiler has run for around 2,324 hours (roughly a year), prompting an annual service. The display may flash between the spanner and the flow temperature.
- Siphon-fill (an alternating bar symbol) — normal. The boiler runs at low burn for about 15 minutes to fill the condensate trap, often after it has been off for a day or the controls were turned down and back up. Let it finish.
- Air-purge — normal at first start-up after installation: the boiler won't fire but pulses the pump on and off to clear air.
- Key / child lock — the front panel has been locked (on the newer Greenstar 24/28). Unlock it via the panel rather than treating it as a fault.
If any of these persist far longer than expected, treat it like a fault and call an engineer. Anything beginning with an F, EA, E9 or a flashing triangle is a genuine lockout, not a service prompt.
What a Worcester Bosch repair typically costs
If a code returns after a single reset, you'll need a professional repair. These are indicative 2026 ranges and vary by region, parts and call-out timing.
| Job | Indicative cost |
|---|---|
| Engineer diagnostic / call-out | £70 – £120 |
| Replace flame-sensing electrode (EA-type faults) | £100 – £180 |
| Replace combustion fan (C6) | £200 – £350 |
| Replace pump (overheat / flow faults) | £200 – £400 |
| Replace gas valve | £250 – £450 |
| PCB / control board (F0-type internal faults) | £300 – £500+ |
This is where a policy earns its keep. With boiler cover, a repair like a failed fan or gas valve is handled for the price of your monthly premium instead of a one-off bill.
If you're weighing it up, our guides to the best boiler cover and whether boiler cover is worth it break down what's actually included — and you can compare cover across our panel in a couple of minutes.
One repair can cost more than a year of cover
A single fan, pump or PCB job can run to several hundred pounds. Compare boiler-cover plans side by side and see what a fixed monthly premium would protect you against.
Compare boiler coverFrequently asked questions
Is it safe to use my boiler while it's showing an error code?
When a Worcester Bosch boiler locks out it stops firing, so there's no immediate hazard from the lockout itself — but you'll have no heating or hot water until it's fixed. If you ever smell gas, don't reset it: call 0800 111 999 and leave the property.
Can I clear a Worcester Bosch fault code myself?
You can reset a lockout once from the front panel, repressurise if it's a low-pressure code, and thaw a frozen condensate pipe. If the code returns after one reset, stop — the remaining causes (electrode, fan, gas valve, flue, PCB) need a Gas Safe registered engineer with the casing off.
Why does the same code keep coming back?
A repeating code means the underlying fault hasn't been fixed — a worn electrode on an EA, a failing fan on a C6, or a flow problem on an E9. Repeated resets won't cure it, so get it diagnosed rather than cycling the reset button.
The suffix on my code is different from the one listed — does that matter?
Yes. The exact digits after the letter group vary by model and generation across the Greenstar range, and they narrow down the cause. Always check the code against the manual or the label inside your boiler's casing flap for your specific unit.
Will boiler cover pay for a Worcester Bosch repair?
Most heating-repair policies cover parts and labour for faults like these, subject to the boiler being in good working order when you took the policy out, the boiler-age limit, and any excess on the plan. Always check the exclusions before you buy.